Gitano NYC, down by the Seaport, provides a curious attempt at imported tranquility. Palms, real ones, apparently, shade an outdoor area that aims for Tulum without the sand or the long flight. It’s the kind of place where one might expect to linger, but in New York, lingering is a competitive sport. The Mexican theme is present, visually at least, suggesting a certain laid-back sensibility that often gets lost in translation. Perhaps a twilight visit would best capture the intended atmosphere.